Is Antarctica Safe?
The Sinking of Explorer in Antarctica Raises Questions About Safety
Nov 24, 2007
The Antarctica expedition vessel Explorer sank today, November 24, having hit an iceberg just off the South Shetland Islands 24 hours ago.
Fortunately there was no loss of life and luckily for the passengers and crew, a Hurtigruten vessel, Nordnorge, came to the rescue, but the incident is a reminder that cruising to Antarctica, one of the world's most fragile and remote regions, carries a strong element of risk.
Antarctica is one of the least charted, most challenging places on Earth, yet big cruise ships carrying up to 3,000 people are beginning to offer cruises through its icy channels, alarming environmentalists.
Pressure groups like the Antarctic and Southern Ocean Coalition (ASOC), a global coalition of environmental NGOs, say that the damage from fuel spillage if a ship were to run aground would be unthinkable, not to mention the impossibility of rescuing 3,000 passengers and 2,000 crew from a stricken vessel. Explorer was small at 2,400 tonnes; Nordnorge and the other vessel which carried the 150 passengers and crew to safety could in no way have coped with a giant cruise ship in distress.
Tourism in Antarctica is self-governed by the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators, which recommends 500 as the maximum capacity for a ship visiting Antarctica. Passengers should only be put ashore at a maximum of 100 per hour; the landing sites simply can’t handle any more. Tourists on larger vessels have to be content with the view from the deck.
These are guidelines only, though, and there is nothing to stop big ships bringing people to Antarctica. But is this really the way forward for tourism in this fragile region?
There are more environmentally sensitive ways to see the frozen continent. Think about the size of vessel. Smaller ships are more basic and passengers may feel the vessel's movement when crossing the Drake Passage from Argentina, but you get more time ashore in Antarctica. A rescue operation from a smaller ship is also more feasible in the event of disaster (although it has to be said, accidents like that of Explorer are extremely rare). Quark Expeditions uses Russian icebreakers and research vessels carrying 50 to 110 passengers on trips ranging from ‘Adventure’, which includes hard-core kayaking, camping and mountaineering, to ‘Expedition’, which are more luxurious.
The 12-day Classic Antarctica expedition costs from $4,500 for 11 nights excluding flights, spending four days edging through the ice sheet, landing passengers twice a day to admire penguins, seals, seabirds and amazing ice formations.
Bigger ships are more stable and have more facilities, but are restricted in where they can land passengers. Perhaps a good compromise is Hurtigruten's ice-toughened MS Fram, which carries 328 and has a gym, sauna, hot tubs, shops, internet access and a big observation lounge.
No amount of luxury, however, can disguise the fact that this is an expedition, not a cruise, and where you visit will depend entirely on the weather and the condition of the ice. An open mind and a sense of adventure are essential!
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